Geiger-Counters

A very kind gentleman recently sent me an outdoor BME280. It is a smaller version of the BME280 breakout board, but in an outdoor enclosure. It was sent with one very simple instruction: "For Radspod One." I think it is like this one from AliExpress but there seem to be a few different types so have a look about. Not too long ago, Steadramon added capability to ESPGeiger for the BME280, BMP280 and I think the BME680, but don't quote me on that. Anyway, as it was intended for Radspod One, and now ESPGeiger firmware supports the BME280, it would be very rude not to! So I did. 😁 It was all quite

Why are you prattling about with coding your own ESP8266 or ESP32 to run a Geiger counter when you can simply run ESPGeiger! Yaaay! 😄 I actually mean that. Stop messing with code that will give you only what you want. Choose ESPGeiger and get all the beans! I'm joking, but now seriously, ESPGeiger is good. No, it's not just good, it is fantastic! Let me tell you why. The first thing is as of the time of writing, ESPGeiger is currently under development, meaning as you read this, Steadramon may be bashing away at his keyboard making it better. Steadramon is the guy that wrote ESPGeiger and

I have a few of these little counters on hand and decided to mod a few. One I have at my office sat on my desk, and another two I'll be sending out in the wild. My original intention was to mod a bunch of them and sell them to potential radmon.org users as a 'works right out of the box' counter submitting to radmon.org. I changed my mind after realizing they take a lot longer to actually mod than I initially thought (because I'm doing a much better job on these than the first), and that recently a version of ESPGeiger firmware was released with a bug that made them unable to update

On 24/11/2024 Radspod One went offline. It had been just doing it's job for 8 years non-stop, with the odd break, usually PC/server related. This is the very first counter I got online years back when I only had half a clue. 😂 On the 24th the server eventually died. Capacitors had gone bad on the mainboard and around the time I just couldn't be bothered repairing a machine that should have been recycled a long time ago. So it got left. I eventually got fed up of seeing it blinking away outside and doing nothing more, so it was time to give it a good service and a full bill of health. It was

Modifying my GK Radmon kit Geiger counter to run ESPGeiger firmware has gained a little interest in it. John (BroHogan) the creator of the GK Radmon and other kit counters caught wind of this and appears very happy for me to be slicing and dicing his work - all in the good spirit of things, and Steadramon, the writer of the ESPGeiger firmware is looking if he can make a drop-in version of his ESPGeiger firmware that can be loaded onto the GK Radmon (and probably GK Radmon Plus too) without the need to modify the counter itself. That would be very cool. It has also spurred on an ESPGeiger

Please note that this mod is no longer necessary as the pins can be selected within the ESPGeiger firmware settings. A couple of days ago Steadramon released an updated version of his ESPGeiger firmware, which included a new webhook feature I had been patiently waiting for. This got me playing about with ESPGeiger again and the thought crossed my mind "can I get it to run on my GK Radmon?" I bought my GK Radmon kit about five years back. I didn't like the original firmware much. Not that it was bad, it just didn't suit the way I use my counters. The original firmware was written for very low

I couldn't wait to tinker with this so I decided to mod this in lieu of getting the ESP-12 modules and programmer. Using a scope I found the connection points I needed, Soldered some wires on. Soldered a Wemos D1 Mini clone on the other end, installed ESPGeiger 0.7.0, and boom! Literally as simple as that. Using the scope I checked the ribbon cable pins one by one and found the pulse coming from the PSU board. I didn't want to solder right on the ribbon, it looks janky already, so probed about and found that it is connected to L12. The MCU side of the inductor is where I soldered the pulse

Yaorea YRG01 I bought another cheap Chinese counter from Aliexpress and I am impressed, especially for the price of £27 shipped to my door. Despite its cheap appearance it actually offers a lot of bang for buck. I haven't looked into it closely, but there seems to be a lot of attention to detail, and I reckon whoever designed this really gave a damn about it. 😄 It came up in suggested products on Aliexpress and I wouldn't have bothered about it if not for the fact that someone reviewed it and posted pictures of its insides. "Okay, a glass tube... Ooh a separate PSU board with a big hunking

*** Please note: Working with lithium batteries can potentially be hazardous. Damaging the battery can potentially cause fire or explosion. Learn and understand the risks before performing such a repair. *** I had to replace the battery in my Radiacode 101 as it was becoming potentially dangerous. I noticed the main button on the Radiacode wasn't pressing in properly and was sticking at times, so I popped the unit open and found the battery had expanded and was putting pressure on the circuit board, and thus making the button tight. The battery hadn't expanded like other LiPo's I have had,

I was asked by Gissio to try and download the original firmware from my HFS-P3, so I tried. Alas, no joy so far. ☹️ Under the battery (stuck down with sticky tape) is a pin header. Probably designed to have a pogo pin connector connect to it as there is no room to solder on an actual pin header. I just soldered wires to it directly. I managed to work out the pins by tracing the circuit, but I had to use my microscope as the connections on the MCU really are that small! I took photos of both sides and flipped one then overlaied one over the other so I could line up the vias on the board. You